Riccardo Tisci’s Givenchy Spring/Summer 2017 menswear collection wasn't just a presentation of clothing; it was a carefully constructed narrative exploring themes of spirituality and introspection. Opening with relaxed black suiting, the show subtly shifted into a more complex exploration of form, texture, and a unique blend of darkness and light, reflecting Tisci's signature aesthetic with a renewed focus on internal contemplation. This collection, while firmly rooted in Givenchy's established luxury, offered a glimpse into a more introspective and, in some ways, vulnerable side of the brand.
The initial presentation of relaxed black suiting established a foundation of understated elegance. These weren't the stiff, formal suits of previous seasons. Instead, Tisci opted for softer silhouettes, looser fits, and a more relaxed drape. The fabrics, while undeniably luxurious, felt less rigid, hinting at a comfort and ease that contrasted with the often-severe aesthetic associated with high fashion menswear. This subtle shift in tailoring immediately communicated a move away from the overtly powerful and towards a more nuanced exploration of masculinity. The black palette, a Givenchy staple, served as a backdrop, a blank canvas upon which the collection's more complex elements would be painted.
Beyond the initial black suiting, the collection unfolded through a series of contrasting elements. The exploration of spirituality, a central theme, manifested in the use of flowing fabrics, ethereal prints, and subtle religious iconography subtly woven into the designs. This wasn't overt religious symbolism; rather, it was a suggestion of inner peace and a search for meaning, subtly communicated through the choices of material and silhouette. The collection seemed to be less about outward displays of power and more about an internal journey of self-discovery.
One could interpret the collection's fluidity as a reflection of this spiritual quest. The relaxed tailoring, coupled with the use of flowing fabrics like silks and chiffons, created garments that moved with the body, suggesting a sense of freedom and liberation. This contrasted sharply with the more structured, rigid silhouettes often seen in menswear, further emphasizing the collection's focus on inner peace and self-expression. The use of layering, another key element, added depth and complexity, mirroring the multifaceted nature of the spiritual journey.
The collection’s colour palette expanded beyond the initial black, incorporating muted tones of grey, beige, and white, occasionally punctuated by pops of brighter colour. These additions served to break up the monochromatic foundation, adding a sense of dynamism and life to the collection. The muted palette maintained a sense of sophistication and restraint, while the occasional brighter shades provided moments of unexpected vibrancy, reflecting the unpredictable nature of spiritual exploration.
Givenchy's commitment to quality and craftsmanship was evident throughout the collection. The attention to detail, from the impeccable tailoring to the exquisite fabrics, underscored the brand's dedication to luxury. This commitment wasn't merely about creating beautiful garments; it was about creating pieces that would endure, reflecting the timeless nature of the spiritual quest.
The show also showcased Givenchy's ongoing exploration of unisex fashion. Several pieces were clearly designed to transcend traditional gender boundaries, reinforcing the idea of a more fluid and inclusive vision of style. This aligns with a broader trend in the fashion industry towards breaking down traditional gender roles and embracing a more inclusive and diverse approach to design. This is not a new concept for Givenchy, but the SS17 collection integrated the idea seamlessly into the overall narrative, further emphasizing the collection’s focus on inner exploration rather than rigid external definitions.
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